Engine Gasket Set, for 36Hp VW Engines

OVERVIEW

When it comes to restoring or maintaining the legendary 36HP "fixed-stand" air-cooled engine, precision is the difference between a reliable vintage cruiser and a driveway oil slick. This IAP Engine Gasket Set is meticulously engineered specifically for the 1192cc powerplants that defined the golden era of Volkswagen production. Unlike generic kits that attempt a "one size fits all" approach, this set respects the unique architecture of the early magnesium cases. Every seal in this kit is manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specifications, ensuring that your classic Beetle, Ghia, or Bus maintains the internal pressure and oil retention required for optimal cooling and longevity. Whether you are performing a full bench rebuild or a top-end refresh, having a complete, high-quality gasket set is the most cost-effective insurance policy you can buy for your vintage investment.

At Appletree Automotive, we understand that 36HP owners are a dedicated breed who demand authenticity and performance. This comprehensive kit includes every essential sealing component needed to button up your engine from the crankcase to the cylinder heads. From the critical oil pump gaskets to the specialized valve cover seals, each piece is crafted from durable, heat-resistant materials designed to withstand the thermal cycles of an air-cooled environment. We have seen far too many enthusiasts struggle with leaks caused by aged, brittle gaskets or inferior modern reproductions. By choosing this IAP set, you are ensuring that your engine stays "dry" and efficient, allowing you to focus on the road ahead rather than the oil level on your dipstick. It is the definitive solution for the 1955 to 1960 era Volkswagen enthusiast who refuses to compromise on quality.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle (Type 1): 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958, 1959, 1960
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958, 1959, 1960
• Volkswagen Bus / Transporter (Type 2): 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958, 1959
• Engine Compatibility: 36HP (1200cc) Fixed Generator Stand Engines ONLY

SPECS

• Part Number: 111-198-003
• Engine Type: 36 Horsepower (Fixed Stand)
• Kit Contents: Complete engine overhaul set including case, head, and peripheral seals
• Valve Cover Gaskets: High-density cork/rubber composite for superior sealing
• Oil Strainer Gaskets: Included for both top and bottom of the strainer plate
• Pushrod Tube Seals: Specialized 36HP specific diameter and height
• Main Seal: High-temperature resistant rear main (flywheel) seal included
• Exhaust Gaskets: Heat-shielded composite material to prevent manifold leaks
• Intake Gaskets: Precision-cut paper for airtight fuel-to-air delivery

PRO TIPS

1. Proper Oil Strainer Installation

One of the most common leak points on a 36HP engine is the oil strainer plate. When using the gaskets provided in this kit, ensure that you use one gasket on top of the screen and one gasket below it. Many novices mistakenly stack them or forget the top one entirely. Additionally, always use new copper crush washers on the small cap nuts. Do not over-torque these nuts, as the studs in the magnesium case are easily stripped. A firm, even snugging is all that is required to create a vacuum-tight seal for the oil pickup.

2. Pre-Soak Your Valve Cover Gaskets

To get the absolute best seal out of the cork gaskets included in this set, we recommend lightly coating them in a thin layer of clean engine oil or a specialized gasket tack before installation. This prevents the cork from becoming brittle and helps it "swell" slightly into the imperfections of the vintage valve cover and head surface. Ensure your valve covers are perfectly flat by checking them against a glass surface; if they are warped, even the best gasket won''t stop a leak. Straighten the bails to ensure they apply even pressure across the center of the cover.

3. Rear Main Seal Depth is Critical

When installing the rear main seal (the flywheel seal) included in this kit, do not simply hammer it in until it stops. On 36HP cases, the depth of the seal is critical for proper lubrication and to prevent the seal lip from riding on a worn groove on the flywheel gland nut. Use a dedicated seal driver tool if possible to ensure it goes in perfectly square. Before installation, check your crankshaft end-play. If the end-play is out of spec, the crankshaft will "walk," which will quickly destroy your brand-new seal regardless of the gasket quality. Always lubricate the inner lip of the seal with a bit of assembly lube or engine oil before sliding the flywheel back into place.