Emergency Brake Cable, for Beetle 73-79 & Ghia 73-74

OVERVIEW

When it comes to the safety and reliability of your classic air-cooled Volkswagen, few components are as vital yet overlooked as the emergency brake system. Over decades of use, original factory cables stretch, fray, and eventually succumb to corrosion, leaving you with a loose handle and a vehicle that is prone to rolling when parked. This high-quality IAP Emergency Brake Cable is engineered to restore the precise, firm tension your VW''s parking brake system had when it first rolled off the assembly line. Designed specifically for the later model Beetle and Ghia configurations, this cable ensures that your rear brake shoes engage firmly against the drums, providing the essential secondary braking force needed for steep inclines or emergency stopping situations. Don''t settle for a spongy handle or a cable that requires constant adjustment; upgrading to a fresh set of cables is a fundamental step in any chassis restoration or routine maintenance schedule.

At Appletree Automotive, we understand that late-model Volkswagens require specific parts that differ from their earlier counterparts. This cable is built to the exact specifications for 1973 and newer models, featuring the correct end-fittings and housing lengths required for a seamless installation. Beyond stock restorations, these cables are a favorite among the dune buggy and woods-buggy community. While they are a direct bolt-on for the Beetle and Ghia, their robust construction allows them to be adapted or shortened for custom fiberglass bodies and shortened pans, making them a versatile staple in any VW builder''s garage. Whether you are finishing a concourse-level Super Beetle restoration or just trying to pass your local safety inspection, this emergency brake cable delivers the durability and performance that air-cooled enthusiasts demand. Sold individually, we highly recommend replacing both the left and right cables simultaneously to ensure balanced tension and even braking pressure across the rear axle.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle (Standard): 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977.
• Volkswagen Super Beetle: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979.
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1973, 1974.
• Custom Applications: Suitable for Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Baja Bugs using a 1973-79 style chassis or handbrake assembly (may require modification for shortened wheelbases).

SPECS

• Part Number: 133-609-721
• Interchange Part Number: 98-6903-B
• Material: High-tensile strength braided steel inner cable.
• Protective Coating: Zinc-plated ends for superior rust and corrosion resistance.
• Housing: Heavy-duty flexible conduit designed to resist compression under load.
• Weight: 0.69 lbs.
• Quantity: Sold Individually (2 required per vehicle).
• Total Length: Optimized for late-model Type 1 floor pans.

PRO TIPS

1. Lubrication is Key for Longevity: Before sliding the new cable into the guide tubes (often called the "H" tubes) in your chassis, apply a generous amount of high-quality white lithium grease or a dedicated cable lubricant to the inner wire. This prevents the metal-on-metal friction that leads to premature snapping and ensures that the handle operation remains smooth and effortless even in humid or salty environments where corrosion is a constant threat.

2. Perform a Balanced Adjustment: After installing the new cables, it is crucial to adjust them correctly at the handle. Jack up the rear of the car so both wheels are off the ground. Tighten the adjustment nuts at the base of the handbrake lever until you feel a slight drag on the rear wheels at the third or fourth "click" of the handle. Ensure that both wheels have equal resistance; if one side is tighter than the other, it can cause the car to pull to one side during emergency braking or lead to uneven shoe wear.

3. Inspect the Guide Tubes and Seals: While you have the old cables out, take a moment to inspect the metal guide tubes that run through the center tunnel. If these tubes are clogged with old, hardened grease or dirt, use a piece of stiff wire or a small brush to clean them out. Additionally, ensure the rubber boots at the back of the brake backing plate are in good condition. If they are cracked or missing, they will allow water and road grime to enter the cable housing, which will quickly ruin your brand-new IAP cables.