Wheel Cylinder, for Rear Beetle & Ghia 68-79, Thing 73-74 Ea

Restore Your Stopping Power with Professional Grade Rear Wheel Cylinders

When it comes to the safety and performance of your classic air-cooled Volkswagen, nothing is more critical than the integrity of your hydraulic braking system. Over decades of service, original rear wheel cylinders often fall victim to internal corrosion and seal failure, leading to a "spongy" brake pedal feel or, worse, brake fluid leaking onto your brake shoes and ruining their friction capabilities. This EMPI replacement rear wheel cylinder is engineered to restore that factory-firm pedal response and ensure your Beetle, Ghia, or Thing stops straight and true every time you hit the anchors. Designed as a direct-fit replacement for the 17.46mm bore factory units, this cylinder features high-quality rubber boots and internal seals that are fully compatible with modern DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids, providing a reliable seal against the elements and internal hydraulic pressure.

Whether you are performing a full frame-off restoration or just keeping your daily driver on the road, installing fresh wheel cylinders is one of the smartest investments you can make for your VW. These units are sold individually, but as master technicians, we always recommend replacing them in pairs to ensure even braking pressure across the rear axle. This specific model is designed for the later-style rear drum brakes found on 1968 and newer Volkswagens, including the Super Beetle and the rugged Type 181 Thing. By choosing this EMPI component from Appletree Auto, you are getting a part that meets or exceeds original equipment standards, ensuring your classic VW remains a joy to drive and, more importantly, a safe vehicle for you and your passengers. Don''t settle for compromised braking when a high-quality, affordable solution is just a few clicks away.

Detailed Vehicle Fitment

• Volkswagen Beetle (Standard): 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977
• Volkswagen Super Beetle: 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974
• Volkswagen Thing (Type 181): 1973, 1974
• Chassis Type: Fits both Swing Axle and IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) models for the years listed above.

Technical Specifications and Dimensions

• Part Number: 113-611-053B (Interchanges with 113611053B)
• Bore Diameter: 17.46mm (11/16")
• Material: High-grade cast iron body for maximum durability and heat dissipation.
• Inlet Port Thread: M10 x 1.0 (Standard VW brake line fitting).
• Seals: Premium EPDM rubber boots and internal cup seals for leak-free performance.
• Bleeder Screw: Includes pre-installed bleeder screw for easy system purging.
• Orientation: Universal fit for Rear Left or Rear Right sides.
• Compatibility: Designed for use with DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 glycol-based brake fluids.

Pro Tips from the Appletree Garage

Tip 1: Always Replace Brake Shoes After a Leak

If you are replacing your wheel cylinder because the old one was leaking fluid, you must inspect your brake shoes immediately. Brake fluid is a lubricant and an organic solvent; once it soaks into the porous lining of a brake shoe, it is virtually impossible to remove entirely. Even if you clean them with "brake clean," the heat generated during braking will often draw more fluid to the surface, causing the brakes to grab, pull, or fail to stop. If you see "wet" shoes, don''t take chancesreplace the shoes and the hardware along with the new cylinders to ensure a safe, balanced stop.

Tip 2: The Importance of the "Long-to-Short" Bleeding Sequence

When you open the hydraulic system to install a new wheel cylinder, you will introduce air into the lines. To properly bleed the air out, you should always start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer. For a standard left-hand drive VW, the sequence is: Rear Right, then Rear Left, then Front Right, and finally Front Left. This ensures that you aren''t just pushing air bubbles further down the line. Use a high-quality flare nut wrench on the bleeder screw to avoid rounding off the edges, and always keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off so you don''t "suck air" back into the system.

Tip 3: Check Your Brake Lines and Flex Hoses

While you have the drums off and the system open, take a close look at your rubber brake hoses and hard lines. If the rubber hoses look cracked, "checked," or feel unusually soft, they are likely original and are expanding under pressure, which kills your pedal feel. Similarly, check the steel lines for heavy rust or pitting. Installing a brand-new EMPI wheel cylinder onto a failing rubber hose is like putting a new heart into a body with clogged arteries. Replacing those 50-year-old hoses at the same time as the cylinders will dramatically improve your VW''s stopping power and overall safety.