Oil Drain Plate Stud, 23mm X 6mm, Sold Each

Product Overview

When it comes to maintaining the integrity of your vintage Volkswagen engine, the smallest components often play the most vital roles. This 23mm x 6mm Oil Drain Plate Stud is a critical fastener designed to secure the oil strainer and drain plate to the bottom of the engine case. Over decades of service, original studs frequently suffer from fatigue, thread stretching, or corrosion, which prevents a perfectly flat mating surface. If your VW is leaving those dreaded oil spots on the driveway, the culprit is often a compromised stud that refuses to hold the proper tension on the oil plate gaskets. Replacing these studs during your next oil change or engine rebuild is an inexpensive insurance policy against vacuum leaks and messy oil drips that can lead to more significant engine issues down the road.

Precision is everything in the world of air-cooled performance, and these high-quality replacement studs are manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specifications. Forged from durable steel and finished to resist the harsh environment of an engine''s underbelly, they provide the reliable clamping force necessary to compress your gaskets without stripping the delicate threads in your magnesium or aluminum engine case. Whether you are performing a concourse-level restoration on a Split Window Beetle or just keeping your daily driver Bus on the road, using fresh hardware ensures that your oil system remains sealed and your engine stays lubricated. Don''t risk your expensive engine case by reusing rounded or weakened hardware; invest in the structural integrity of your Volkswagen''s bottom end with these essential M6 studs.

Vehicle Fitment

This oil drain plate stud is designed for the standard 1200cc, 1300cc, 1500cc, and 1600cc air-cooled Type 1 based engines. Please check your specific case requirements, as most engines require six of these studs for a complete set.

• Volkswagen Beetle: 1949 through 1977 (Standard and Super Beetle)
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1956 through 1974
• Volkswagen Bus / Transporter: 1950 through 1971 (Type 2)
• Volkswagen Type 3: 1962 through 1973 (Squareback, Fastback, Notchback)
• Volkswagen Thing: 1973 through 1974
• Custom Applications: Fits most AS41 and AS21 dual-relief cases, as well as aftermarket aluminum cases for Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Trikes.

Technical Specifications

• Diameter: 6mm (M6)
• Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
• Overall Length: 23mm
• Material: High-tensile strength steel for maximum durability
• Finish: Zinc coated for superior corrosion and rust resistance
• Application: Oil strainer plate and drain cover mounting
• Quantity: Sold individually (Each)
• Part Number: N144512 / IAP Equivalent

Master Specialist Pro Tips

1. The Double-Nut Installation Method

Never use pliers or vice-grips on the center of these studs, as marring the surface creates a stress riser that can lead to snapping. To install these correctly into your engine case, thread two 6mm nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each other (jamming them). Use a wrench on the outer nut to thread the stud into the case until it bottoms out firmly. Once seated, use two wrenches to unlock the nuts and remove them. This ensures the stud is fully seated without damaging the threads or the shank.

2. Adhere Strictly to Torque Specifications

One of the most common mistakes in VW engine maintenance is over-tightening the 10mm acorn nuts that go onto these studs. The factory torque specification is only 5 to 7 foot-pounds (approximately 60 to 84 inch-pounds). Because the engine case is made of relatively soft magnesium or aluminum, over-torquing will quickly pull the threads right out of the case. Always use a high-quality inch-pound torque wrench and a fresh set of copper crush washers to achieve a leak-free seal without risking permanent damage to your engine block.

3. Clean the Blind Holes Thoroughly

Before installing a new stud, it is imperative to ensure the threaded hole in the engine case is free of old oil, sludge, and debris. Use a shot of brake cleaner and a small nylon brush to clean the threads. If the hole contains residual oil, the "hydraulic effect" of screwing in a new stud can actually crack the magnesium casting at the bottom of the hole. For the best results, apply a single drop of medium-strength blue thread locker to the case-end of the stud to prevent it from backing out during future oil changes.