Generator & Alternator Stand Gaskets, for Type 1 VW, Each

OVERVIEW

When it comes to maintaining the integrity of your air-cooled engine, the smallest components often play the most critical roles. These high-quality Generator and Alternator Stand Gaskets are engineered specifically for the Type 1 Volkswagen engine, providing a reliable seal at one of the most common leak points on the upright cooling system. In the high-heat environment of a VW engine bay, the interface between the engine case and the generator stand is under constant thermal stress. These precision die-cut gaskets are designed to withstand those temperature fluctuations while preventing oil from weeping out onto your case and cooling tins. Whether you are performing a routine generator replacement or building a high-performance 2276cc stroker, starting with a fresh set of gaskets is the only way to ensure a bone-dry engine top.

One of the most frequent mistakes made during an engine assembly is reusing old, compressed gaskets or attempting to use a single gasket where two are required. On a standard Type 1 engine, the oil deflector plate must be sandwiched between two of these gaskets to create a proper seal between the engine case and the alternator or generator stand. This specific gasket, part number 113-101-219, is manufactured to OEM specifications to ensure that the oil passages remain clear while the surrounding surfaces are perfectly sealed. Because these are sold individually, you must remember to order two gaskets for every engine build to complete the "sandwich" assembly correctly. Don''t let a simple two-dollar part lead to a messy engine bay and hours of cleanup; invest in the proper sealing solution from Appletree Automotive.

FITMENT

• VW Beetle: 1950 through 1979 (All Type 1 Sedan and Convertible models)
• VW Karmann Ghia: 1956 through 1974
• VW Bus / Type 2: 1950 through 1971 (Models equipped with 1200cc, 1300cc, 1500cc, or 1600cc Type 1 based engines)
• VW Thing / Type 181: 1973 through 1974
• VW Squareback, Fastback, Notchback / Type 3: 1962 through 1973
• Custom Applications: Fits all Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Trikes utilizing a VW Type 1 engine case

SPECS

• Part Number: 113-101-219
• Material: High-density specialized gasket cellulose fiber
• Quantity: Sold Each (2 required per engine)
• Application: Fits both 6V/12V generator stands and modern alternator stands
• Thickness: Precision gauge for optimal compression and sealing
• Compatibility: Works with all stock and aftermarket Type 1 magnesium or aluminum engine cases

PRO TIPS

1. The Proper Sandwich Technique

To achieve a leak-free seal, you must understand the order of operations for the stand installation. First, clean the engine case surface thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove all oil residue. Lay down the first gasket, followed by the metal oil deflector plate (ensure the "louvers" or tabs are facing the correct direction as per your manual), and then place the second gasket on top of the deflector. Finally, set your alternator or generator stand onto the second gasket. This dual-gasket "sandwich" is the only way to properly seal the metal deflector plate that lives between the case and the stand.

2. Use a High-Quality Case Sealer

While these gaskets are designed to seal on their own, master engine builders almost always use a very thin "smear" of non-hardening case sealer, such as Curil T or Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. Apply a nearly transparent layer to both sides of each gasket. This provides an extra layer of protection against the capillary action of hot oil, which can otherwise weep through the fiber material over time. Be careful not to use excessive RTV silicone, as any squeeze-out can break off and clog your internal oil passages, leading to catastrophic engine failure.

3. Check the Stand for Warpage

Before installation, always check the bottom mating surface of your generator or alternator stand for flatness. Many older magnesium stands have warped over decades of heat cycles, or they may have burrs around the stud holes from over-tightening. Use a piece of 400-grit sandpaper on a flat glass surface to lightly "lap" the bottom of the stand until you see an even wear pattern across the entire mating surface. This ensures that when you torque down the four 13mm nuts, the pressure is distributed evenly across your new gaskets, preventing the stand from rocking or leaking under pressure.