Ball Joint Lower Trailing Arm Seal, for Beetle & Ghia 66-77

OVERVIEW

Maintain the structural integrity and smooth operation of your classic Volkswagen''s front suspension with this premium Ball Joint Lower Trailing Arm Seal. Specifically engineered for the lower trailing arms of ball-joint style front beams, this seal acts as the primary line of defense for your torsion housing. Over decades of service, original rubber seals succumb to dry rot, ozone exposure, and road grime, eventually cracking and allowing moisture to penetrate the needle bearings or bushings inside the beam. By replacing your worn-out factory seals with these high-quality OEM-spec replacements from Appletree Automotive, you are effectively sealing out the abrasive contaminants that lead to premature suspension failure and expensive beam rebuilds.

The lower trailing arm is subject to constant movement and heavy road spray, making the quality of this seal paramount to your VW''s longevity. This seal is designed to provide a snug, interference fit between the trailing arm and the outer tube of the front beam, ensuring that the grease stays packed around the torsion leaves and bearings where it belongs. Whether you are performing a full frame-off restoration or simply tackling a weekend front-end refresh, installing new lower trailing arm seals is a critical step that should never be overlooked. A small investment in these seals today can save you hundreds of dollars in labor and parts by preventing the "crunchy" suspension feel and metal-on-metal wear that plagues neglected air-cooled front ends.

FITMENT

This seal is designed for the lower trailing arm on Volkswagen Type 1 ball joint front ends. Please note that it fits the lower position only; the upper seal is typically different in design for certain years.

• Volkswagen Beetle (Standard): 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974
• Volkswagen Thing (Type 181): 1973, 1974
• Note: Does NOT fit Super Beetle (1302/1303) models with MacPherson strut suspension.
• Note: Does NOT fit pre-1966 King and Link Pin front ends.

SPECS

• Part Number: 131-405-129
• Material: High-density, oil-resistant automotive-grade rubber.
• Position: Front Lower Trailing Arm (Outer Seal).
• Quantity: Sold individually (two required per vehicle for the lower arms).
• Application: Ball Joint Front Beams only.
• Finish: Natural Black.
• Resistance: UV, Ozone, and Petroleum resistant for long-term durability.

PRO TIPS

Tip 1: Surface Preparation is Key

Before sliding the new seal onto the trailing arm, take the time to thoroughly clean the sealing surface on the front beam tube. Use a fine-grade Scotch-Brite pad or 400-grit sandpaper to remove any surface rust, old grease, or scale from the outer edge of the beam. If the beam surface is pitted or rough, the new seal won''t be able to do its job effectively, allowing water to "wick" past the rubber. A smooth, clean surface ensures a watertight fit that will keep your internal bearings lubricated for years to come.

Tip 2: Lubricate During Installation

Never install these seals dry. To prevent the rubber from binding, tearing, or "rolling" as you push the trailing arm back into the beam, apply a thin film of high-quality lithium grease or a dedicated rubber lubricant to both the ID of the seal and the OD of the beam tube. This helps the seal seat perfectly against the shoulder of the arm. Additionally, a light coating of grease on the outside of the seal helps repel water and prevents the rubber from sticking to the beam over time due to heat and pressure.

Tip 3: Inspect Your Bearings While the Arm is Out

Since you must remove the trailing arm to replace this seal, this is the perfect opportunity to inspect the internal needle bearings or urethane bushings inside the beam tube. Reach inside with a clean finger or a lint-free rag to check for metal flakes or heavy scoring. If the old seal was failed, there is a high probability that dirt has entered the bearing race. Clean out the old, contaminated grease as much as possible and pump in fresh, high-pressure Molly grease through the Zerk fittings until you see clean grease emerging before final assembly.