Swing Axle Boot, Red, for Beetle & Ghia 48-68, Pair Premium

OVERVIEW

When it comes to maintaining the integrity of your air-cooled Volkswagen''s drivetrain, few components are as critical yet overlooked as the swing axle boot. These EMPI Premium Red Urethane Swing Axle Boots are engineered to provide a superior seal compared to standard rubber alternatives, ensuring that your precious gear oil stays inside the transaxle where it belongs. Unlike traditional one-piece boots that require a complete teardown of the rear suspension and removal of the axle tubes, these high-performance urethane boots feature a split-design configuration. This allows for a "quick-change" installation that saves hours of labor while providing a vibrant, custom look under your chassis. The accordion-style bellows are designed to flex effortlessly with the movement of your suspension, preventing the cracking and dry-rotting common with inferior rubber compounds.

This premium kit is not just about the boots; it is a complete sealing solution designed for the serious VW enthusiast. Each pair comes equipped with wide-band stainless steel hose clamps that provide even pressure around the transaxle snout and the axle tube, eliminating the "weeping" leaks that often plague swing axle Volkswagens. The fastening hardware is equally impressive, featuring heavy-duty hex-head steel bolts and nylon insert lock nuts (Nylocks) to ensure that the seam remains tight even under the vibration and stress of daily driving or off-road use in a dune buggy. Whether you are restoring a vintage 1950s Beetle or keeping a classic 1960s Karmann Ghia on the road, these red urethane boots offer the perfect blend of modern material science and classic fitment.

FITMENT

• VW Beetle (Sedan & Convertible): 1948 - 1968 (Swing Axle Models)
• VW Karmann Ghia: 1956 - 1968
• VW Bus / Transporter / Type 2: 1955 - 1967
• VW Type 3 (Notchback, Squareback, Fastback): 1962 - 1968
• Dune Buggies & Sand Rails: All models utilizing a VW Swing Axle Transaxle

SPECS

• Material: High-Durability Red Urethane (Oil and UV Resistant)
• Boot Style: Accordion Bellows, Split-Design for Easy Installation
• Clamp Material: Wide-Band Marine-Grade Stainless Steel
• Hardware: Zinc-Plated Hex Head Bolts with Nylon Insert Lock Nuts
• Quantity: Sold as a Pair (Includes 2 Boots and all necessary Hardware)
• Part Number: 00-9981-0
• Compatibility: Fits standard 1200cc, 1300cc, 1500cc, and 1600cc swing axle transaxles

PRO TIPS

1. Orientation is Everything for a Leak-Free Seal

When installing these split boots, the position of the seam is vital for longevity. You should always position the seam so it faces the rear of the vehicle, ideally at a 9-o''clock or 3-o''clock position (horizontal). Never place the seam at the very bottom (6-o''clock), as gear oil will constantly pool against the hardware and eventually find a way out. By keeping the seam horizontal, you minimize the amount of standing oil resting against the junction, ensuring a much drier garage floor. Ensure the "lip" of the boot is fully seated in the groove of the transaxle side cover before you begin tightening the clamps.

2. Cleanliness and Surface Preparation

Before you even slide the new red boots into place, you must ensure the mounting surfaces are surgically clean. Use a high-quality brake cleaner and a rag to remove every trace of old gear oil, road grime, and grease from the transaxle snout and the axle tube. Urethane provides an excellent seal, but any film of oil remaining on the metal surfaces during installation can act as a lubricant, causing the boot to slip out from under the clamp when the suspension travels. A bone-dry surface allows the urethane to "bite" onto the metal for a permanent, non-slip fit.

3. Don''t Over-Torque the Small Hardware

While it is tempting to crank down on the small hex bolts that hold the split seam together, remember that you are squeezing urethane, not crushing steel. You want the seam to be tight enough to be light-tight, but over-tightening can cause the material to "mushroom" or bulge between the bolts, which actually creates a gap for oil to escape. Tighten the bolts evenly starting from the center and working your way out. Once the seam is closed and the Nylock nuts are engaged, a snug fit is all you need. Focus your real tightening effort on the large stainless steel hose clamps, as these are what truly prevent the gear oil from migrating out of the axle tube.