Throttle Cable, for Beetle & Ghia 58-66, 2650mm

OVERVIEW

When it comes to the classic feel of a vintage Volkswagen, nothing is more critical than a responsive and smooth throttle. If you''re driving a 1958 to 1966 Beetle or Karmann Ghia, you know that the connection between your right foot and the Solex carburetor is the lifeline of your engine''s performance. Over decades of use, original cables stretch, fray, and eventually snap, often leaving you stranded at the most inconvenient times. This premium EMPI throttle cable is engineered specifically for the 2650mm requirement of the early-to-mid-sixties chassis, ensuring that your acceleration is crisp, predictable, and free from the "sticky" sensation caused by rusted or degraded internal wire strands. Replacing your throttle cable is one of the most cost-effective ways to restore that factory-new driving dynamic to your air-cooled treasure.

This isn''t just any generic replacement; it is a high-tensile steel component designed to withstand the unique rigors of the VW rear-engine layout. Because the cable must travel the entire length of the pan and through the guide tube in the fan shroud, it is subjected to constant heat cycles and friction. This 111-721-555C model features the correct end-fittings for the 1958-1966 pedal clusters, eliminating the need for frustrating modifications or "universal" kits that never quite fit right. At Appletree Auto, we understand that precision matters in a restoration, which is why we offer this exact-length cable to ensure you have the proper slack for adjustment at the carburetor barrel nut. Don''t settle for a spongy pedal or a cable that might bind upupgrade to a fresh, high-quality line and feel the difference in every gear.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle (Type 1): 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia (Type 14): 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966
• Chassis Compatibility: Standard Beetle (Sedan, Sunroof, and Convertible models)

SPECS

• OEM Reference Number: 111-721-555C
• Total Length: 2650mm (Approximately 104.3 inches)
• Material: High-tensile, multi-strand galvanized steel for maximum snap resistance
• Finish: Corrosion-resistant coating to prevent rust in humid environments
• End Type A: Correct loop-end for early-style accelerator pedal linkages
• End Type B: Straight lead for carburetor barrel nut attachment
• Manufacturer: EMPI
• Installation Style: Direct OE replacement

PRO TIPS

1. The Golden Rule of Lubrication

Never install a throttle cable "dry." Before sliding the new cable into the chassis tube, apply a generous coating of high-quality white lithium grease or a specialized cable lubricant along the entire length. This drastically reduces friction inside the guide tube and prevents the cable from sawing through the metal over time. A well-lubricated cable not only feels smoother at the pedal but also prevents moisture from causing internal corrosion, which is the leading cause of cable failure in air-cooled Volkswagens.

2. Inspect the Fan Shroud Guide Tube

Before you finalize the installation, inspect the small metal guide tube that passes through your engine''s fan shroud. If this tube is missing, bent, or misaligned, the cable will rub against the sharp edges of the shroud or the cylinder tin, causing it to fray and snap within weeks. Ensure the guide tube has a slight, smooth curve and that the cable exits the chassis and enters the shroud in a straight line. If the tube is worn out, replace it at the same time as the cable to ensure a long-lasting repair.

3. Proper Tension and "Full Throttle" Verification

When tightening the barrel nut at the carburetor, have an assistant hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. Adjust the cable so that the carburetor throttle arm is at its maximum stop at the exact same moment the pedal hits the floorboard. However, be careful not to over-tighten; there should be a tiny amount of "give" to prevent putting excessive tension on the cable ends. Over-tensioning can bend the throttle arm or cause the cable to snap at the pedal cluster. Always double-check that the carburetor returns fully to the idle position when the pedal is released.