Wide Disc Brake Kit, 5 On 205mm, Swing & IRS Long Spline

OVERVIEW

Upgrade your air-cooled Volkswagen''s stopping power and stance with the EMPI Wide Disc Brake Kit. Specifically engineered for off-road enthusiasts and street rod builders who demand a more aggressive footprint, this kit provides a 1-inch wider track per side. By pushing the wheels out, you gain significantly more stability in high-speed cornering and rough terrain, making it a favorite for dune buggies, woods buggies, and heavy-duty Baja Bugs. This kit eliminates the fading and maintenance headaches associated with aging drum brakes, replacing them with a high-performance disc system that offers consistent, reliable braking under the most demanding conditions. Whether you are navigating a technical trail or cruising the boulevard, the confidence of modern disc technology transforms the driving experience of your vintage VW.

This premium EMPI kit features a massive 5-on-205mm bolt pattern, bringing that classic "Wide 5" look to later model long-spline transaxles. The rotors are a robust one-piece design, providing superior heat dissipation and structural integrity compared to multi-piece alternatives. A standout feature of this kit is the dual-threaded rotor design, which is factory-tapped for both 12mm and 14mm wheel studs, giving you ultimate flexibility when choosing your wheel and tire package. This is a non-ebrake (emergency brake) kit, designed for simplicity and maximum performance in applications where a mechanical parking brake isn''t required or is handled by a separate line-lock system. From the heavy-duty calipers to the precision-machined mounting brackets, every component in this kit is built to withstand the rigors of high-performance air-cooled applications.

FITMENT

This kit is designed for Volkswagen Type 1 based vehicles equipped with long-spline rear axles. Please verify your axle length before ordering to ensure proper hub engagement.

• VW Beetle (Type 1): 1968 (Swing Axle Models with Long Splines)
• VW Beetle (Type 1): 1968 - 1972 (IRS / Independent Rear Suspension Models)
• VW Karmann Ghia: 1968 (Swing Axle) and 1968 - 1972 (IRS)
• Dune Buggies & Sand Rails: Any custom chassis utilizing a 1968-72 Type 1 IRS or 1968 Long Spline Swing Axle transaxle.
• Note: Not compatible with early short-spline axles or 1973-later IRS axles without modification.

SPECS

• Bolt Pattern: 5 x 205mm (Classic Wide 5)
• Axle Configuration: Long Spline Rear Axles
• Track Increase: Adds 1 inch of width per side (2 inches total track width increase)
• Rotor Type: 1-Piece Minimum Offset Extra Wide Rotors
• Stud Threading: Dual-drilled and threaded for 12mm and 14mm studs
• Brake System: Hydraulic Disc (Non-Emergency Brake version)
• Caliper Style: Floating Single-Piston High-Output Calipers
• Kit Weight: Approximately 65 lbs
• Included Hardware: Calipers, Brake Pads, Mounting Brackets, Rotors, Gaskets, and Zinc-Plated Hardware

PRO TIPS

1. Master Cylinder Matching is Critical

When converting from rear drums to rear discs, you are significantly changing the volume of fluid required to actuate the pistons. We strongly recommend upgrading to a dual-circuit master cylinder with a larger bore (such as a 19mm or 20.6mm unit) to ensure you have a firm pedal and enough displacement to move the caliper pistons effectively. Running a stock drum-brake master cylinder often results in a "mushy" pedal that sits too low for safe operation. Always check your residual pressure valves; disc brakes typically require a 2lb valve or no valve at all, whereas drums use 10lb valves which can cause disc brakes to drag and overheat.

2. The Importance of Proper Spline Torque

One of the most common mistakes during installation is failing to properly seat the rotor on the axle splines. Before final assembly, ensure the splines on your axles are perfectly clean and free of burrs. When tightening the 36mm axle nut, don''t rely on a standard breaker bar alone. You must torque the nut to at least 250-300 ft-lbs to prevent the hub from "chattering" against the splines. A loose hub will quickly strip the splines on both the rotor and the axle, leading to a costly failure. We always recommend using a new cotter pin and checking the torque again after the first 50 miles of driving.

3. Caliper Orientation and Bleeding

When mounting your new calipers, always ensure that the bleeder screws are pointing upward. If the calipers are swapped side-to-side and the bleeders are facing down, you will trap an air pocket at the top of the cylinder that is physically impossible to bleed out. This trapped air will cause a spongy pedal and poor braking performance. If you find you can''t get a firm pedal after multiple bleeding attempts, double-check your orientation. Additionally, use a high-quality DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid and start your bleeding process at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder to ensure all air is purged from the long rear lines.