Disc Brake Kit, 4 On 130mm, Long Spline, with Forged Bracket

OVERVIEW

Upgrade your vintage Volkswagen''s stopping power with the EMPI Rear Disc Brake Kit, specifically engineered for those running the 4 on 130mm bolt pattern with long spline axles. For decades, VW enthusiasts have struggled with the limitations of rear drum brakes, which are prone to heat fade, frequent adjustment requirements, and inconsistent performance during spirited driving. This comprehensive kit eliminates those concerns by replacing outdated drum components with high-performance rotors and 2-piston calipers. The standout feature of this particular "F" version kit is the inclusion of forged caliper brackets. Unlike cheaper cast alternatives that can flex under extreme pressure, these forged brackets provide superior rigidity, ensuring that every ounce of hydraulic pressure is converted into clamping force for a firm, responsive brake pedal.

Whether you are restoring a classic 1968-and-later Beetle or building a custom street machine, this kit offers a seamless blend of modern safety and period-correct aesthetics. By maintaining the factory 4x130mm lug pattern, you can keep your original wheels or choose from a wide variety of aftermarket options without the need for adapters or redrilling. The kit is designed for long spline axles, making it a direct fit for most Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) transaxles found in late-model Bugs, Ghias, and Super Beetles. Every component, from the precision-machined rotors to the heavy-duty axle seal kits, is selected to provide a "bolt-on" experience that significantly reduces installation headaches while dramatically increasing your vehicle''s deceleration capabilities and overall safety on today''s busy roads.

FITMENT

• VW Beetle (IRS): 1968 - 1977
• VW Super Beetle: 1971 - 1979
• VW Karmann Ghia (IRS): 1968 - 1974
• Note: Specifically designed for "Long Spline" rear axles.
• Note: Fits vehicles with the factory 4 on 130mm lug bolt pattern.

SPECS

• Part Number: 22-2861-F
• Bolt Pattern: 4 on 130mm (Standard VW Late Pattern)
• Axle Style: Long Spline
• Caliper Type: 2-Piston High-Performance Floating Calipers
• Bracket Type: Heavy-Duty Forged Steel (Increased Strength over Cast)
• Rotor Material: Premium Grade Cast Iron, Precision Machined
• Hardware Included: 2 Rotors, 2 Calipers with Pads, 2 Forged Brackets, 2 Axle Seal Kits
• Weight: Approximately 53.1 lbs

PRO TIPS

1. Master the Master Cylinder Upgrade

When transitioning from a four-wheel drum setup to a front and rear disc brake configuration, your stock master cylinder may no longer provide the necessary volume to move the larger caliper pistons effectively. We highly recommend upgrading to a 20.6mm or larger bore master cylinder. This ensures that the pedal travel remains firm and that you have enough hydraulic displacement to fully engage the 2-piston calipers. Failure to upgrade the master cylinder often results in a "mushy" pedal feel and suboptimal stopping distances, which defeats the purpose of your performance upgrade.

2. The Importance of Clean Axle Surfaces

Before installing the new rotors and axle seal kits, it is critical to use a fine emery cloth or scotch-brite pad to clean the axle mating surfaces and the seal seating area on the bearing housing. Any grit, old gasket material, or rust scale can prevent the new axle seals from seating perfectly, leading to gear oil leaks that can contaminate your new brake pads. Once cleaned, apply a light film of high-quality gear oil to the inner lip of the seal before sliding it over the axle to prevent "dry start" friction damage to the rubber seal.

3. Proper Bleeding Sequence and Orientation

Always ensure that the bleeder valves on the calipers are pointing upward when you perform the final bleeding process. Air naturally rises to the highest point in the hydraulic system; if the bleeder is at the bottom, you will never successfully remove the trapped air. Additionally, because you are working on the rear of the car, ensure you follow the standard bleeding sequence: start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the passenger rear), then move to the driver rear, then passenger front, and finally the driver front. This ensures all air is pushed out of the longest lines first.