Brake Light Switch, 2 Post, Beetle 50-69, Bus 50-69

OVERVIEW

Ensuring your vintage Volkswagen is visible to other drivers is the single most important safety measure you can take when hitting the open road. This EMPI 2-Post Brake Light Switch is a premium hydraulic replacement designed to restore the immediate response of your stop lights the moment you depress the pedal. In the air-cooled world, your master cylinder relies on these pressure-activated switches to complete the electrical circuit to the rear of the vehicle. Over decades of service, original switches often suffer from internal diaphragm fatigue or terminal corrosion, leading to delayed activation or total failure. By upgrading to this high-quality EMPI component, you are investing in a reliable, heavy-duty solution that ensures your classic Beetle, Bus, or Ghia communicates your intentions to following traffic without hesitation.

Engineered for versatility and ease of installation, this switch is designed to thread directly into your stock master cylinder or aftermarket performance units, including the popular Type 2 master cylinders used in dune buggies and sand rails. The two-post design is specific to the early-style wiring harnesses, utilizing secure screw-on terminals that prevent vibration-induced disconnects during spirited driving. Whether you are performing a full pan-off restoration or simply maintaining your daily driver, you shouldn''t settle for inferior, generic switches that require excessive pedal pressure to activate. This switch is calibrated to trigger your brake lights with minimal hydraulic pressure, providing an extra margin of safety by alerting drivers behind you the split second you begin to slow down.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle (Type 1): 1950 through 1969
• Volkswagen Bus (Type 2): 1950 through 1969
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1956 through 1969
• Volkswagen Type 3 (Squareback, Fastback, Notchback): 1962 through 1969
• Custom Applications: Fits most Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Trikes utilizing a VW-style master cylinder.

SPECS

• Part Number: 113-945-515H
• Terminal Configuration: 2-Post (Screw-on style)
• Thread Pitch: M10 x 1.0 Metric (Compatible with 1/8 inch NPT in specific applications)
• Activation Method: Hydraulic Pressure (Normally Open)
• Housing Material: Zinc-plated steel for superior corrosion resistance
• Insulator Material: High-heat resistant phenolic plastic
• Operating Voltage: 6V and 12V DC systems
• Manufacturer: EMPI

PRO TIPS

Tip 1: Bleed the Air After Installation

Whenever you crack open the hydraulic system to replace a brake light switch, you risk introducing air bubbles into the master cylinder. After you have tightened the new switch into place, it is highly recommended to perform a quick bleed at the switch itself or the nearest wheel cylinder. If air remains trapped behind the switch diaphragm, you might experience a "mushy" pedal or find that the brake lights only activate when the pedal is pushed deep toward the floorboards. A tiny bit of air can cause a significant delay in electrical contact, so always ensure the system is solid and air-free for the fastest response time.

Tip 2: Protect Your Terminals from the Elements

Because the master cylinder is located underneath the chassis on many air-cooled models, it is constantly bombarded by road grime, moisture, and salt. To prevent the 2-post terminals from corroding and creating high electrical resistance, apply a small dab of dielectric grease to the posts before attaching your wires. For the ultimate protection, we recommend using rubber terminal boots over the switch. This prevents the "green crust" of oxidation from forming, ensuring your brake lights remain bright and reliable even after years of driving in inclement weather.

Tip 3: Diagnose Before You Discard

If your brake lights aren''t working, you can easily test if the switch is the culprit before removing it. With the ignition in the "on" position, take a jumper wire and momentarily connect the two wires that attach to the brake light switch terminals. If your brake lights illuminate, you know your wiring, fuses, and bulbs are in good shape, and the switch has internally failed. If the lights still don''t come on, you likely have a broken wire or a blown fuse elsewhere in the circuit. Doing this simple bypass test saves you the time and mess of swapping the switch unnecessarily and helps you pinpoint the exact failure in your vintage electrical system.