Tail Light Seals, for Beetle 62-67, Pair

OVERVIEW

When it comes to maintaining the classic silhouette and structural integrity of your vintage Volkswagen, the small details often make the biggest difference. These premium EMPI Tail Light Seals are engineered specifically for the 1962 through 1967 Volkswagen Beetle, providing a factory-perfect barrier between the tail light housing and the rear fender. Over decades of service, original rubber seals become brittle, cracked, and compressed, allowing moisture to seep into the sensitive electrical components and, more dangerously, trap water against the metal bodywork. By replacing your aged seals with this high-quality pair, you are not only ensuring a clean, finished look for your restoration but also proactively defending your Beetle against the "tin worm" of rust and corrosion that often starts in the damp recesses of the tail light assembly.

Crafted from high-density, weather-resistant rubber, these seals offer the exact thickness and profile required to achieve a watertight fit without overstressing the mounting hardware. As any air-cooled enthusiast knows, the 1962-1967 era represents a golden age of Beetle design, and keeping these "peaked" style tail lights properly seated is crucial for both safety and aesthetics. These seals are designed to mirror the OEM specifications of part number 111-945-191E, ensuring that you don''t have to struggle with universal "trim-to-fit" alternatives that never quite sit right. Whether you are performing a body-off restoration or simply refreshing your daily driver''s exterior, these EMPI seals provide the durability and precision fitment that Appletree Auto customers demand for their prized Type 1 Volkswagens.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle (Type 1) Sedan: 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967
• Volkswagen Beetle (Type 1) Convertible: 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967

SPECS

• Part Number: 111-945-191E
• Brand: EMPI
• Material: High-Grade EPDM Rubber Compound
• Quantity: Sold as a Pair (Left and Right sides)
• Color: Matte Black
• Application: Tail Light Housing to Body Seal
• Compatibility: Fits US and European spec housings for the 62-67 year range

PRO TIPS

Tip 1: Surface Preparation is Key

Before installing your new seals, take the time to thoroughly clean both the tail light housing and the area on the fender where the seal will sit. Years of road grime, old wax, and degraded rubber can prevent the new seal from seating correctly. I recommend using a mild degreaser and a soft plastic scraper to remove any stubborn debris. If you notice any surface rust on the fender mounting holes, this is the perfect time to treat it with a rust inhibitor or touch-up paint before the new rubber goes on. A clean surface ensures a 100% watertight bond, which is the primary goal of this installation.

Tip 2: Use a Little Lubricant for Seating

Getting the rubber seal to wrap perfectly around the edge of the metal tail light housing can sometimes be a bit "fiddly." To make the process smoother, apply a very light coating of dish soap or a water-based rubber lubricant to the groove of the seal. This allows the rubber to slide over the metal lip without binding or tearing. Avoid using petroleum-based lubricants like WD-40 or grease, as these can cause the rubber to swell and degrade prematurely. Once the seal is in place, the soap will dry, and the seal will stay firmly anchored as you bolt the assembly back onto the Beetle''s fender.

Tip 3: Don''t Over-Tighten the Mounting Nuts

It is a common mistake to think that tighter is better when it comes to preventing leaks. However, over-tightening the nuts on the back of the tail light studs can actually distort the rubber seal, causing it to "mushroom" out or create gaps where water can enter. Tighten the nuts until you see the seal begin to compress evenly against the bodywork. The rubber should look flush and snug, not crushed. Additionally, while the housings are off, I always suggest cleaning the bulb holders and applying a small dab of dielectric grease to the bulb bases to ensure your electrical connections stay as dry and corrosion-free as the inside of your fender.