Rear Main Seal, for Type 1 VW Engines, Each

OVERVIEW

When it comes to the longevity and performance of your air-cooled engine, the rear main seal is arguably the most critical gasket in the entire assembly. Located directly behind the flywheel, this seal serves as the final line of defense, keeping your precious engine oil inside the case and away from your clutch components. A failing seal doesn''t just lead to unsightly oil spots on your driveway; it actively destroys your clutch disc by contaminating the friction material, leading to catastrophic slippage and expensive repairs. This EMPI high-performance silicone rear main seal is engineered to withstand the extreme heat cycles inherent to the VW air-cooled design, providing a superior barrier compared to standard black rubber alternatives that often harden and crack over time. Whether you are performing a routine clutch job or building a high-revving performance engine, replacing this seal is a non-negotiable step to ensure a leak-free operation.

At Appletree Automotive, we understand that "good enough" isn''t in the vocabulary of a true VW enthusiast. That is why we offer this premium silicone version of the classic 113-105-245FS seal. The silicone composition remains flexible at much higher temperatures, ensuring that the seal lip maintains constant, uniform contact with the flywheel hub even as the engine expands and contracts during operation. This seal is designed for all Type 1 based engines ranging from the thriftier 1200cc units up to the robust 1600cc dual-port builds. By choosing a high-quality silicone seal, you are investing in peace of mind, knowing that your engine case will remain bone-dry and your clutch will stay grabby for thousands of miles to come. Don''t risk a weekend teardown just to save a few cents on a generic seal; do the job once and do it right with the best components available.

FITMENT

• Volkswagen Beetle: 1961-1977 (Sedan & Convertible)
• Volkswagen Super Beetle: 1971-1979
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1961-1974
• Volkswagen Bus / Type 2: 1961-1971 (1200cc-1600cc upright engines)
• Volkswagen Type 3 (Squareback, Fastback, Notchback): 1962-1973
• Volkswagen Thing / Type 181: 1973-1974
• Custom Applications: All Sand Rails, Dune Buggies, and Trikes utilizing a Type 1 VW engine case.

SPECS

• Part Number: 113-105-245FS
• Material: High-Temperature Resistant Silicone
• Color: Typically Orange or Red (Silicone signature color)
• Engine Compatibility: 1200cc, 1300cc, 1500cc, & 1600cc based engines
• Inner Diameter: Precision engineered for standard VW flywheel hubs
• Outer Diameter: Press-fit for Type 1, 2, and 3 engine cases
• Lip Design: Single lip with internal tension spring for maximum oil retention
• Quantity: Sold Individually

PRO TIPS

1. Proper Lubrication is Mandatory

Never install a rear main seal "dry." Before you slide the flywheel back into place, apply a light film of clean engine oil or a specialized assembly lube to the inner lip of the silicone seal. If the seal starts up dry against the spinning flywheel hub, the friction can generate enough heat to scorch the silicone surface within seconds, leading to a premature leak. Additionally, ensure the flywheel hub surface is polished and free of any burrs or rust that could tear the new seal during installation.

2. Use a Proper Seal Driver

One of the most common mistakes is "walking" the seal into the case using a hammer and a screwdriver or a small punch. This almost always results in the seal being seated unevenly or the metal casing of the seal becoming distorted. We highly recommend using a dedicated VW rear main seal installation tool, which applies even pressure across the entire circumference of the seal. If you don''t have the tool, find a large socket or a piece of PVC pipe that matches the outer diameter of the seal to ensure it sits perfectly flush and square within the engine case.

3. Inspect the Flywheel Hub for Grooves

Before installing your new silicone seal, take a close look at the area on the flywheel where the old seal used to ride. Over decades of use, the old seal can actually wear a physical groove into the metal of the flywheel hub. If you feel a distinct "catch" with your fingernail, a new seal may not be able to bridge that gap, and you will still have a leak. In these cases, you may need to use a "speedy sleeve" to restore the surface or have a machine shop polish the hub. Always check your crankshaft end-play after the flywheel is torqued down to ensure the seal is operating within its designed parameters.