Link Pin Shims, for 7/8 Pins, 5 Pack

Overview

Precision is the cornerstone of a well-handling air-cooled Volkswagen, and when it comes to the early king and link pin front ends, these 7/8-inch link pin shims are an absolute necessity for achieving a perfect alignment. For the uninitiated, the link pin front suspension found on pre-1966 Beetles and early Ghias relies on a specific arrangement of these hardened steel shims to set the camber and ensure the spindle is properly centered within the control arms. Without the correct shim stack, your VW will suffer from accelerated tire wear, unpredictable "darting" across the road, and the dreaded front-end "death wobble" that has plagued many unmaintained vintage builds. These EMPI shims are manufactured to exacting tolerances, providing the flat, consistent surface area required to withstand the high-pressure loads exerted on the suspension during cornering and heavy braking.

When you are rebuilding your front beam or installing a new set of link pins, you cannot simply guess at the shim count. The total number of shims per link pintypically ten in a factory configurationmust be distributed between the inner and outer faces of the control arm boss to shift the spindle inward or outward. This pack of five 7/8-inch shims allows you to fine-tune that geometry, ensuring that your king pin carrier is perfectly vertical or tilted to the specific camber degree required for your driving application. Whether you are restoring a 1950s oval-window Beetle to showroom specifications or setting up a high-performance sand rail for the dunes, having a fresh supply of these high-carbon steel shims ensures that your suspension movement remains fluid, friction-free, and perfectly aligned for the long haul.

Fitment

These link pin shims are designed specifically for the 7/8-inch diameter link pins found on the following vehicles and applications:

• VW Type 1 Beetle (Standard): 1950 through 1965.
• VW Type 14 Karmann Ghia: 1956 through 1965.
• VW Type 2 Bus / Transporter: 1950 through 1963 (Early link pin models).
• Dune Buggies & Sand Rails: Any custom chassis utilizing a stock or aftermarket King and Link Pin front beam.
• VW Thing (Type 181): Early models or those converted to link pin beams for off-road durability.

Technical Specifications

• Inner Diameter: 7/8 Inch (Proprietary fit for standard VW link pins).
• Material: Heavy-duty hardened high-carbon steel to resist compression and galling.
• Quantity: 5 pieces per pack.
• Finish: Natural steel with a light oil coating to prevent shelf-corrosion.
• Application: Camber adjustment and spindle spacing.
• Compatibility: Works with both stock and heavy-duty aftermarket link pins.

Pro Tips from the Appletree Garage

1. The Golden Rule of Ten

When assembling your link pins, always remember the "Rule of Ten." On a standard VW link pin setup, you must have a total of 10 shims per pin. For example, if your camber calculation requires 4 shims on the inside (between the spindle and the control arm), you MUST place the remaining 6 shims on the outside (between the control arm and the link pin cap). Failure to maintain the total count of ten will prevent the link pin from seating properly, leading to dangerous side-play in the spindle or, conversely, binding that will make your steering incredibly heavy and ruin your bushings.

2. Cleanliness is Next to Godliness

Before installing these shims, ensure that the faces of your control arms and the spindle carriers are meticulously cleaned of all old, hardened grease and road grit. Even a small piece of debris trapped between these shims can act like sandpaper, grinding away at the hardened surfaces every time you turn the steering wheel. I always recommend applying a thin film of high-pressure molybdenum grease to each shim face during assembly. This creates a hydraulic seal that keeps moisture out and ensures that the shims can rotate slightly against one another without friction-induced heat buildup.

3. Don''t Forget the Rubber O-Rings

While the shims handle the geometry, the rubber O-rings (sold separately) handle the protection. When you install these shims, make sure your rubber dust seals are supple and correctly seated. These shims are the "bearing surface" for the lateral movement of your suspension; if the seals are cracked, water will enter the shim stack, causing rust that will effectively weld the shims together. If you notice your steering feel is "notchy" or won''t return to center, it''s often because the shim stack has dried out or rusted. Always replace your seals when you replace your shims!