Disc Brake Kit, 4 On 130mm, Swing Axle & IRS Long Spline

OVERVIEW

Transitioning your vintage Volkswagen from outdated drum brakes to the modern efficiency of the EMPI Disc Brake Kit is one of the most significant safety and performance upgrades you can perform. This kit is specifically engineered to replace the heavy, heat-prone factory drum setup with a high-performance 4-on-130mm rotor system that provides consistent, fade-free stopping power. Whether you are navigating heavy city traffic or pushing your dune buggy through technical off-road terrain, the increased clamping force of the dual-piston calipers ensures that your vehicle comes to a controlled halt every single time. By reducing unsprung weight and improving heat dissipation, this conversion kit doesn''t just stop you faster; it enhances the overall handling characteristics of your air-cooled ride, giving you the confidence to drive your classic more often and with greater peace of mind.

Designed for versatility and durability, this rear disc brake kit is the perfect solution for both Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) 1968-and-later models and Long Spline Swing Axle configurations. The comprehensive nature of the kit means you won''t be hunting for miscellaneous hardware in the middle of your project; it includes everything from precision-machined rotors and heavy-duty calipers to the essential axle seal kits required for a leak-free installation. The 4-on-130mm bolt pattern maintains the classic late-model look of your 4-lug wheels while providing a massive leap in mechanical reliability. At Appletree Auto, we know that your VW is more than just a carit''s a passion. That''s why we offer components like this EMPI kit that meet rigorous standards for fitment and longevity, ensuring that your vintage investment remains safe and roadworthy for years to come.

FITMENT

• VW Beetle: 1968-1977 (IRS models)
• VW Super Beetle: 1971-1979
• VW Karmann Ghia: 1968-1974 (IRS models)
• VW Beetle (Swing Axle): 1967-1968 (US Models with Long Splines)
• Dune Buggies & Sand Rails: Any custom chassis utilizing 1968-later IRS or Long Spline Swing Axle components

SPECS

• Bolt Pattern: 4 on 130mm (Standard VW 4-Lug)
• Axle Compatibility: IRS (1968+) and Long Spline Swing Axle
• Caliper Type: 2-Piston Floating Design
• Rotor Material: High-Quality Cast Iron
• Rotor Style: Solid Disc
• Bracket Material: Heavy-Duty Steel
• Included Components: 2 Rotors, 2 Calipers with pads, 2 Mounting Brackets, 2 Axle Seal Kits
• Spline Count: Standard VW Long Spline

PRO TIPS

Proper Seal Seating is Crucial

When installing the included axle seal kits, it is imperative to ensure the mating surfaces are spotlessly clean. Many installers make the mistake of rushing the seal installation, which can lead to gear oil leaking onto your brand-new brake pads. We recommend using a dedicated seal driver tool to ensure the seal is seated perfectly square. Additionally, double-check the orientation of the spacer and O-rings; if these are installed backward or pinched, you will experience a leak that ruins your braking performance and requires a complete teardown to fix. Always use a small amount of gear oil on the seal lip to prevent a "dry start" which can burn the seal surface.

Upgrade Your Master Cylinder

While this kit provides superior stopping power at the wheels, your stock master cylinder may not have been designed to move the volume of fluid required by four-wheel disc setups (if you have already upgraded the front). If you find that the pedal feel is too "soft" or has too much travel after installation, consider upgrading to a larger 20.6mm or 22mm bore master cylinder. This ensures that you have the hydraulic leverage necessary to fully engage the 2-piston calipers. Furthermore, ensure you are using high-quality DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid and perform a complete system flush to remove any old, moisture-contaminated fluid from the lines.

Bleeder Screw Orientation

One of the most common tech calls we receive involves "spongy" pedals that won''t firm up regardless of how much bleeding is done. This is almost always caused by the calipers being installed on the wrong sides. When mounting your calipers, the bleeder screw must be positioned at the highest point of the caliper. If the bleeder is at the bottom, an air pocket will remain trapped at the top of the piston chamber, making it impossible to get a firm pedal. If you are struggling to get air out of the lines, verify that the bleeder is pointing up, and always start your bleeding process at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (typically the passenger rear).