Flywheel Shim, 0.24 mm .0094, Sold Each

Precision Engine Tuning with the 0.24mm Flywheel Shim

When it comes to building a high-performance or reliable stock air-cooled engine, precision is the difference between a motor that lasts decades and one that fails in a few hundred miles. The 0.24mm (.0094 inch) Flywheel Shim is an essential component in the critical process of setting your crankshaft end play. End play refers to the specific amount of horizontal movement the crankshaft is allowed within the engine case. If this gap is too tight, you risk overheating the thrust bearing and seizing the engine; if it is too loose, the crankshaft will literally hammer against the case web with every clutch engagement, eventually "pounding out" the case and ruining your engine block. This 0.24mm shim is manufactured to exacting tolerances, allowing engine builders to fine-tune that clearance to the factory-specified sweet spot, ensuring your rotating assembly remains stable under the heavy loads of daily driving or spirited off-road use.

Every master technician knows that you cannot simply throw a random assortment of shims behind the flywheel and hope for the best. Achieving the perfect end play (typically between .003 and .005 inches for most builds) requires a mathematical approach using a variety of shim thicknesses. This specific 0.24mm shim is a core part of any builder''s kit, providing the intermediate thickness needed to reach your target when thinner or thicker shims don''t quite get the job done. Made from high-quality, hardened spring steel, these shims are designed to withstand the immense rotational forces and pressure exerted by the flywheel gland nut. Whether you are assembling a fresh 1600cc dual-port for a daily driver Beetle or a rugged 1915cc powerplant for a sand rail, these EMPI-sourced shims provide the consistency and durability required for a professional-grade engine build. Don''t settle for "close enough" when it comes to your bottom end; use the right shims to protect your investment and ensure maximum engine longevity.

Vehicle Fitment and Compatibility

This flywheel shim is designed for Type 1 based air-cooled engines ranging from 1300cc to 1600cc (and stroker variants using the same flywheel interface). It is compatible with the following models:

• Volkswagen Beetle: 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979
• Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974
• Volkswagen Bus (Type 2): 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971 (Up to 1600cc upright engines)
• Volkswagen Squareback, Fastback, Notchback (Type 3): 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973
• Volkswagen Thing (Type 181): 1973, 1974
• Custom Applications: Fits most Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Trikes utilizing a VW 1300-1600cc engine case.

Technical Specifications

This shim is manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment standards for thickness and material hardness. Below are the specific technical details:

• Thickness (Metric): 0.24 mm
• Thickness (Imperial): 0.0094 inches
• Material: Precision-ground hardened spring steel for maximum compression resistance
• Inner Diameter: Optimized for standard VW 1300cc-1600cc crankshaft snouts
• Reference Part Number: 113-105-281A
• Brand: EMPI / Appletree Automotive
• Quantity: Sold individually (Each)
• Application: Positioned between the crankshaft thrust bearing and the flywheel

Expert Pro Tips for Engine Assembly

The Gold Standard: Always Use Three Shims

In the world of air-cooled VW engine building, there is a hard and fast rule: you must ALWAYS use exactly three shims to set your end play. This isn''t just a suggestion; it is a mechanical necessity. Using only one or two shims doesn''t provide the necessary surface area to handle the thrust loads properly, and using four or more can lead to shim stack instability or interference with the flywheel seal. If you cannot reach your desired measurement with three shims, you need to swap out different thicknesses (such as moving from a 0.24mm to a 0.30mm or 0.32mm) until you find the combination that works. This ensures that the load is distributed evenly and that the shims can "float" slightly against each other with a thin film of oil, reducing wear on the crankshaft and the flywheel face.

Accurate Measurement Requires Full Torque

You cannot accurately measure crankshaft end play with a hand-tightened gland nut. To get a true reading, you must install your three chosen shims, install the flywheel (without the O-ring or metal gasket initially to avoid false readings), and torque the gland nut to at least 217 ft-lbs (or your specific high-torque specification if using an aftermarket chromoly nut). Only once the flywheel is fully seated against the shim stack can you use a dial indicator mounted to the engine case to measure the fore-and-aft movement of the crankshaft. If the measurement is out of spec, you must disassemble, swap shims, and re-torque. It is a tedious process, but it is the only way to guarantee your engine won''t "walk" and destroy the main bearing thrust surface.

Inspect for Burrs and Debris

Before installing your 0.24mm shim, inspect it and the mating surfaces of the crankshaft and flywheel meticulously. Even a microscopic piece of lint, a metal burr, or a dried speck of cosmoline can add .001 or .002 to your measurement, throwing off your entire calculation. Clean the shims with brake cleaner and wipe them down with a lint-free rag. Additionally, check the "bore" of the shim for any tiny stamping burrs that might prevent it from sitting perfectly flush against the crank snout. A shim that sits at even a slight angle will cause the flywheel to wobble, leading to premature main bearing failure and potential vibration issues throughout the entire drivetrain.